Discussion:
how to take apart yamaha p120
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avals
2005-02-14 17:29:31 UTC
Permalink
Hi,

I started experiencing problems with one of my key (middle D) on my
3-yr old Yamaha P120. It comes up very slowly after pressing, or gets
occasionally stuck completely. I am thinking to take P120 apart to see
what the problem is. May be it just needs some cleaning. Does anybody
have any experience how to take apart this keyboard? There are so many
screws at the bottom I don't know where to start.

Any comments are appreciated,
Thank you.
Predrag Jovanovic
2005-02-14 20:10:17 UTC
Permalink
Post by avals
Hi,
I started experiencing problems with one of my key (middle D) on my
3-yr old Yamaha P120. It comes up very slowly after pressing, or gets
occasionally stuck completely.
Your middle D is broken. I had similar problem on my P80.
It is easy to buy spare key, but somewhat tricky to take piano apart and
build in the new key. If you do not have experience with taking things apart
(marriages do not count), it would be better to take it to the shop and let
them replace the key.

Anyway, few months ago some good soul posted "How I took my P80 apart" (I
assume that works for P120 too) and here is copy /paste of his text. Enjoy,
and do not overestimate your abilities.

P.

- text follows -
Post by avals
I took my Yamaha P80 apart because it did not power up. Turned out the
power
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input female had a bad solder connection after I did a lot of tests with
my
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Multimeter. I also had a key that stuck down somewhat and did not respond
like the other keys. The mounting was cracked where it pivots so I swapped
it temporarily with a key of the same letter and place the bad key at the
end of the keyboard until I order a new plastic key.
While I was at it, I cleaned the whole thing out. You will be amazed the
grunge in there under the keys if this is an older one. I am glad I did
not
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know how dirty it was when I was playing it down under the keys. Mine I
bought used so it could have been anywhere.
You have to remove the keyboard to remove the keys unless someone knows a
trick. The keys are affixed on the end where it pivots by a snap-on
plastic
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member that snaps over a plastic boss about the size of a large pea. When
keys go bad and stick down it is usually because the side of the member
has
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cracked that snaps down and the key will be slightly sideways because the
pressure in on the good side on the snap-on part. Where the key is
attached
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to the weighted-action, underneath the key, in this little square hole,
there is a blue-color grease that looks like automotive CV-joint grease. A
rod goes in here. With parts the whole action if a person would need to do
it is pretty much a common sense project to rebuild though very monotonous
to do something 88 times.
To remove a key once you remove the keyboard from the housing is you just
simply put a screwdriver in a small elevated part of the back of the key
and
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pry up. In fact it is shaped like a screwdriver. Pops right out. The
whole
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instrument is easy to work on. After soldering the power-fix I took out
the
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midi PCB boards and cleaned the contacts while I was at it. It has a few
rubber bellow strips with two contacts about 5 or 6 inches long that lay
facing the midi PCB. The ends have small strips with only one contact.
It was a little bit tricky to get the PCB boards back. The edge of the PCB
goes under these tiny little plastic extrusions a couple of inches apart.
You have to pull the rubber midi contact bellows up in their place
slightly
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for the edge or the midi PCB will not go in. Naturally the rubber boots
are
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under the PCB and fit precisely in a guide that places them in the exact
position with tiny rubber indents around the perimeter of the strips that
match the plastic member where they go in. Took me about 30 minutes of
careful trial and error to reinstall the midi bellows and PCB boards.
Under the keys was dead bugs, hair, grime, dirt, fingernails, one bug
looked
Post by avals
like a dead queen termite, crud, one dead 100 legger and a mixture of what
looked like dust and perspiration that formed a very thin dry mud in spots
under the plastics. You can not really clean or it is difficult with the
keys installed 100 per cent. I took each key out and cleaned the whole key
with Fantastic. The keys snap out in a second. I then reinstalled them
over
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the newly cleaned keybed or area under the keys.
Looks like a new instrument with the keys thoroughly cleaned and scrubbed.
It was clean before but it is hard to clean the key sides all the way.
Perhaps a thin cloth-covered tool could do this. Took me two straight
hours
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to clean all 88 keys.
This is one finely built instrument. Everything is really made of quality.
If you see all the parts of the weighted action, the PCB boards, the
housings, console, the keyboard, it is really a bargain when it sold new.
Comes completely and easily apart in about 10 or 15 minutes.
Ed
2005-02-15 04:32:19 UTC
Permalink
Post by avals
Hi,
I started experiencing problems with one of my key (middle D) on my
3-yr old Yamaha P120. It comes up very slowly after pressing, or gets
occasionally stuck completely. I am thinking to take P120 apart to see
what the problem is. May be it just needs some cleaning. Does anybody
have any experience how to take apart this keyboard? There are so many
screws at the bottom I don't know where to start.
Any comments are appreciated,
Thank you.
I had a similar problem with a P120 - one of the black keys stuck and
tended to drag the adjacent white keys with it whenever I pressed it.
When I looked at the key very carefully I noticed that it wasn't lined
up exactly right - it was just a tad too far forward - so I pushed it
back, and it has been OK ever since.

Ed

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